Nike and Jacquemus - The Verdict.
The first Nike x Jacquemus collection dropped on 28th June after a reported three years in the making. A breath of fresh air for many, it's nice to see Nike finally focusing on a womenswear collaboration - after all, Nike has promised that women's sportswear design will be at the forefront of their business plan as they enter their 50th year of retailing. The promotional images featured Jorja Smith, and the collection was first made available on a limited number of platforms - primarily on the Nike SNKRS app. This was truly a collaboration that no one expected, but nonetheless sold out almost immediately. Promptly, a second drop was announced for the 7th July which unsurprisingly has just sold out again.
I had the pleasure of getting to view some of the pieces on Thursday at Sneakersnstuff in Paris: so here are some my thoughts.
For this collaboration Simon Porte Jacquemus clearly does what he does best, a limited collection of toned down and classic pieces with a twist. Jacquemus uses neutral colour ways with a small gold swoosh featuring on many of the pieces. He utilises beige, navy, white and gold as the primary colour palette to link the pieces in the collection to one another. Straps circle around the well fitting and flattering pieces, and cutouts are prominent throughout. Overall, it is evident to say that the collection is truly in-keeping with his personal design language of the last few seasons.
The collection consists of fifteen items with cut-out dresses, a skort, and two different colour ways of Jacquemus’ take on the nike Humara being amongst the most prominent items in the collection. The entire collection, as expressed by the designer, takes heavy influence from 90s and early 2000s Nike ACG. This is most obvious with the shoe, which is the standout piece. It features the base of the Humara that Jacquemus modified with a small gold swoosh and natural tones. For reference to the ACG similarities, linked below are 2000s ACG shoe designs below, so feel free to compare and take a look for yourself.
ACG Walking Shoes (year of production unknown).
Here, these models hold the same chunky silhouette, with a similar design and the same muted colour palette.
Although the majority of the items are relatively simplistic, the concept of 'elevated basics' is
really what stands out (the idea which is perhaps the premise for the majority of Simon Jacquemus’ collections.) What Jacquemus does best is create comfortable, beautifully made, and flattering clothing with a modern and minimal edge. He simply repeats that here, but adds a sportswear feel (think 80s Wimbledon or Sporty and Rich).
In short, the collection has been a good move for both brands. Nike has increased its grip on the fashion industry, and Jacquemus has expanded its reach to a wider consumer base by operating at a lower price range with this collection.